Up next Safety First: Navigating Off-Roading Risks and Injuries Published on May 28, 2025 Author Dillon Houck Photo Credit Dillon Houck Tags Off-road Light Controller, Solid State Switch Panel, switch panel, Switch Panel Installation, Share article Facebook 0 Twitter 0 Mail 0 Upgrading to the Switch-Pros RCR-Force 12 Expanding Capacity, Correcting an Early Compromise Sometimes when you’re in the middle of a build, you have no choice but to accept function over form on a less-than-critical component. Such was the case when installing a light controller in my rig last year—right before a major event. On an extremely tight timeline, and an even tighter remaining budget, I bought the cheapest 8-button control module I could stomach off Amazon. It got the job done, but it always bugged me. For the past 6 months, it seemed to be staring me in the face with every drive, mocking me with its cheap plastic housing and horrid Bluetooth control app. Apparently, the Switch-Pros crew could hear its mockery too. At a recent overlanding event I attended, I was asked if I’d be interested in upgrading to Switch-Pro’s new 12-button, 17-circuit solid-state RCR-Force 12 control system. Before the question was even finished, I answered with a resounding, “Yes, please!” Subscribe to our weekly newsletter The full Switch-Pros RCR-Force 12 system was laid out and all parts were accounted for. We were ready to begin the install. To ensure nothing gets shorted, we tipped the driver seat back to access the battery ground. With the battery ground disconnected, we were safe to proceed in the engine bay. We removed all the engine bay dress panels to expose wiring and select our mounting position. Removing the driver side headlight gave access to the previous system – the power module was wrapped in foam and stuffed inside the driver side fender well. We removed the previous system, taking care to identify and label all light leads. To get the comms cable connector through the firewall, we removed the plug per the instructions. The Force 12 has 3 pink trigger wires that were pulled into the cockpit for safe keeping, along with the ignition sensor wire and a yellow chase wire. We used the chase wire to pull the comms cable from the cockpit back through to the engine bay. With the cable routed through the firewall, we put the leads back into the 4-prong connector and re-locked it. Since the power block only uses load wires, we identified an open location for a ground distribution block and routed all the ground wires there. The RCR-Force 12 is a programmable unit with 17 circuits at various amperages, so it does take a little thought before splicing loads to the power harness. We made a map for load amperage needs based on amp draw totals and available controller outputs (35a, 30a,or 15a). Next, we spliced our load (+) wires to the power harness-colored leads based on our map. We then secured all the spliced positive wires in a cable sheath, and routed any excess wiring back up into the fender well. With all our lights wired, we were ready to replace the headlight. The provided heavy-gauge main battery lead gets connected directly to the battery, or in our case, the jump post. We then connected the other end to the Switch-Pros main panel, and covered the post with the provided boot. The main ground from the power harness, along with our ground block lead, went directly to the chassis ground. Finally, we test fit the Switch-Pros control module position and all cables one more time to ensure everything reached. To dim the unit at night, we grabbed a 12v light signal from a side marker light by T-splicing to the unit’s “light” wire. We then connected the “ignition” sensor wire to an empty switched ignition fuse holder slot in the fuse panel ignition signal. This allows you to set a time-out shut off. Here you can see the comms cable routed up past the fuses, ready to be tucked behind the door seal. Back in the engine bay, we secured all 3 harness plugs to the Switch-Pros panel, listening for the “click” lock on each. With the harnesses locked in place, we could now reconnect the car battery ground. To get the comms cable to route cleanly to the mounting location, we made a small recess in the back of the fuse panel cover. We then reassembled the rest of the interior… …as well as the cover panels in the engine bay. Next, we assembled the 67 Designs Carbon Fiber Pro Arm and panel holder. Here you can see the full assembly as it will sit on my windshield. Between the aluminum and carbon fiber, this thing is this light! Using the provided sticker sheets, we selected our 12 button icons. Carefully, each button sticker got applied to the switch panel. To close it up, we simply clipped the controller faceplate over the panel. To prepare for setup, I installed the Switch-Pros application for iPhone. With the battery reconnected and the Switch-Panel mounted, it was time for programming! We assigned the associated load outputs to the buttons based on our plan. With the dress panels in, you can barely see the power module on the driver side firewall. But from inside, combined with the 67 Designs Carbon Fiber mount plates, it’s a work of art! Sources Switch-Pros 949-581-2991 www.switchpros.com 67 Designs 469-646-8810 www.67d.com Links to products mentioned: Switch-Pros RCR-Force 12 light controller: https://store.switchpros.com/rcr-force-12/ 67 Designs Carbon Fiber Panel Holder: https://www.67d.com/products/switchpro-rcr-force-12-switch-panel-holder 67 Designs Pro Arm: https://www.67d.com/products/arm-builder-pro-series-arms-1-1-ball-sizes Visit Here About Latest Installations: Tread Magazine
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