Mastering Tire Repair in Remote Backcountry: Tools, Tips & Techniques
Improve your skill set with CPR for a flatlined dog.
What are the odds of finding a stray push rod in the middle of the Nevada desert? Pretty thin, right? And the odds of it laying in such a position to pierce a hole in your tire? Well, you probably have a better shot at finding a Bitcoin in your backyard, but there we were pulling the offending metal shaft from my buddy’s tread block. Back then (we’re talking late ‘80s) we didn’t carry tire plugs or patches, so we swapped in his spare and continued on… spareless. But times they are a changin’, and with the tools now available to repair a tire in the field, running spareless should be a thing of the past. In this Backcountry Skills, we are going to review a few high-quality tire repair kits, then dive into everything from simply plugging a nail hole to performing major surgery.
Repair kits in this review are from Extreme Outback Products, ARB, Power Tank, Safety Seal, and GlueTread.
The Gear
Back in 1964, Alec W. Niconchuk began developing the first self-vulcanizing tire repair system. His company was called Safety Seal, and his plug method became the model which countless others have emulated. While there are many companies boasting a better or cheaper mousetrap, the most important thing is to get the best one you can afford. I would strongly avoid the cheap $10 units found at discount stores, as you may spend much more coin at the ER when the plastic handle breaks and you shish kebab your hand. The kits I carry (for my multiple rigs) are from ARB, Power Tank, Extreme Outback Products, and of course, Safety Seal. GlueTread is the new kid on the block, and now included in my tire repair kit. Let’s take a look.
Safety Seal and ARB
These two products come in a durable plastic case containing yarns, insertion and reaming tools, a razor blade, and lubricant. Safety Seal offers kits (all made in the USA) suited for everything from semi-truck tires to UTVs. You will note the sliding plug retainer on both insertion tools (a handy add-on), and ARB expands the roster with an air gauge and assortment of valve stem accessories. Both are high quality units and will handle most puncture repairs.
A high-quality self-vulcanizing plug kit will handle most trail punctures.
Power Tank
As the purveyor of CO2 onboard air systems, it is only natural that Power Tank offers a repair kit. It includes premium yarns and steel reamer/insertion tools, needle nose pliers, air gauge, razor, and their Rescue Valve, a replacement valve stem that can be installed without removing the tire from the rim. Also included is a length of steel wire for…well, we’ll get to its purpose later. Everything is wrapped in a ballistic nylon roll with MOLLE attachment points, replete with illustrated instructions.
Pull the projectile out with pliers, paying attention to the angle at which it entered. This is important because you don’t want to cause additional damage by driving your reamer straight in when the hole is on an angle (it might not seal). Dip the business end of the reamer in lube and drive it into the hole. Once inserted, slide it in and out a number of times while rotating the handle.
Extreme Outback Products
Outback takes things to the next level with its Ultimate Puncture Repair Kit. Not only is each component sourced from the best manufacturers, but there are enough consumables to keep you on high ground during a trip of nearly any duration. They step up options with the inclusion of a variety of patches ranging from mini to the massive Baja Boot (a Dick Cepek concept back in the day), as well as waxed polyester thread and stitching needles. The durable canvas bag also includes a buffer/roller, air gauge, rubber cement, hand wipes, valve cores and accessories… you name it.
TIP: Repairing a tire is serious business. Don’t cheap out with discount store tools.
Thread the end of a yarn through the eyelet of the insertion tool, pull it halfway through with pliers, and dip the tip in lube.
Pull the reamer and drive the yarn in until only half to three quarters of an inch of the ends are exposed. Tires are tough, and the above processes might take a fist full of elbow grease to get those suckers in.
Caption: Plugs usually stay put as you remove the insertion tool, but if it has a retainer, press it against the exposed yarn as you pull back on the handle.
The last step is to trim off the exposed yarn with a razor. Voilà, you are ready to air up and check for leaks. Most punctures only need one yarn, but a larger hole might require two or possibly three.
The Plug
Plugging a tire is ‘usually’ the simplest of trail repairs. It can be done without removing the wheel, and often before the tire is fully deflated. If you notice a low tire and don’t hear a hiss, first ensure that the valve core is not leaking. Put a little saliva on your finger, lightly place it on the opening, and look for bubbling. Also look for any debris that might be jammed in the bead between the wheel and tire. If the cause is a nail (or push rod), you’ll need to roll the vehicle until the offending object is accessible.
TIP: Make sure to insert the reamer at the same angle as the offending object that entered the tire.
Colby Valve (2X), Power Tank temporary stem, and generic valve stem.
Replacing a broken stem requires unseating the bead on at least one side. After removing the damaged stem, slip a hand inside the rim and insert a new one (with the cap threaded on) through the opening. With the other hand, grab it from the outside with pliers (be sure not to grab the threads) and pull it through until the rubber shoulder fully seats in the opening. A metal stem will be the same process, but you’ll need a deep socket or box-end wrench to tighten the exterior nut.
Emergency stems are a great option for a temporary fix without dismounting the tire. One is provided in Power Tank’s kit, but I prefer the Colby Valve offered by GlueTread. Installation involves cutting the damaged stem off and pushing any residual into the tire. Fully insert the Colby Valve, spin the wing nut down tight, air up, and you are back on the trail.
Valve Stem Woes
The R&R
That broken stem or a puncture that requires more than plugs to fix will necessitate dismounting the tire from the rim. Tools needed are a set of Tyrepliers or a Hi-Lift jack, and tire irons, also called tire spoons. You can get by with just the spoons and a Hi-Lift jack, but Tyrepliers make the job much easier. Before you start, be sure the tire is fully deflated, and put a chalk mark on the tire where the valve stem is. Matching these marks when remounting will help to keep it semi-balanced. Also, have a squirt bottle of water or Camp Suds on hand to keep tire/bead contact surfaces lubricated.
TIP: Lubricating the tire/bead interface with soapy water will make dismounting and mounting much easier.
Tools for dismounting a tire include a Hi-Lift jack, Tyrepliers, and tire spoons.
To break a bead with a Hi-Lift, place the wheel directly below a bumper with a suitable port for the jack’s nose (a receiver hitch can work as well). Place the jack’s foot on the tire, butting it up to the outer edge of the wheel, and start cranking the lever. The larger and older a tire, the more stubborn it will be. If this is the case, pour a little water in the gap created, reposition, and repeat.
Tyrepliers consist of three articulating ‘arms.’ The base arm has a single claw on one end, a double claw on the other, and adjustment points allowing it to work with rims between 13 and 18 inches. Place the single claw between the tire and rim opposite the valve stem and give it a few whacks with a mallet, enough for the claw to catch the rim’s lip. Put your foot on the base arm, then repeat the process with the double claw. The two round arms will be near vertical. Keeping pressure on the base, grab both handles and pull them apart like a wishbone, the outbound lever doing most of the work. With a section of bead separated from the rim, move the operation 30 degrees left or right and repeat. Success…now flop the wheel over and do the other side.
Dismounting the tire requires several large pry bars or tire spoons. Lay the tire on the ground and slide one iron between the tire and rim. Step on the opposite side with enough weight to press the bead into the well of the rim (narrowest part). Pull up on the inserted iron until the bead rolls over the rim’s edge, then shove in another iron a few inches to the side. Work your way around a few inches at a time. Make sure to keep a tight grip/foot on them. If they take to the skies, they can break a jaw.
The Legal Stuff
In the name of safety (and to keep the attorneys happy), all of the repairs shown here are temporary fixes—just enough to get you off the trail. Though I’ve had plug repairs last the life of a tire without issue, a tire with sidewall damage is destined for the recycler. The U.S. Department of Transportation states, ‘Repairs must be made to the inside of the tire and should not exceed .25 inches in diameter for passenger cars and light trucks… Repairs to sidewalls and shoulder areas of the tire are not allowed.’ Have a qualified tire shop determine if it’s toast or street worthy. Failed brakes, steering, and tires can kill a fella, so don’t take chances.
What’s Next
In the next Backcountry Skills, we’ll be addressing more catastrophic tire SNAFUs…the dreaded sidewall gash. But fear not my rubber-footed friends, there is a trail fix for this one too. In the meantime, I suggest sourcing the gear, grab an old tire from behind the barn, punch a few holes in it, and practice. You may never run into a renegade push rod in the middle of the Nevada desert, but if one bushwhacks your dogs at least you’ll know what to do.
See you on the trail,
Chris
Resources
Extreme Outback Products:
www.extremeoutbackproducts.com
Safety Seal: www.safetyseal.com
ARB: www.arbusa.com
Power Tank: www.powertank.com
Hi-Lift: www.hi-lift.com
GlueTread: www.gluetread.com
