Driving Skill: Master Terrain in your 4×4

Backcountry exploring can be a rewarding venture. Your 4WD can get you to remote places to access that secluded camping spot, that secret fishing hole, or your favorite trail to wheel down. Knowing the abilities and limitations of your vehicle, along with your 4×4 driving skills will make those outings more enjoyable. In most cases, driver skill can be your most important tool, regardless of what you drive.

Know Your Rig: Why Manufacturer Instructions Matter

It’s tempting to just jump in and throw your rig into 4WD, but each vehicle is a little different—and your owner’s manual is your best friend here. That handbook isn’t just glovebox padding; it lays out exactly how to engage and disengage 4WD for your make and model.

Why does this matter? Using 4WD improperly can do real damage: think busted front axles, chewed-up gears, or even a cracked differential case (that’s the important bit that lets your wheels turn at different speeds without protesting).

Every truck or SUV has its own quirks when it comes to shifting into 4WD, so a quick review of the manual before heading off-road can save your wallet—and your adventure. Take a minute to get familiar with the process, and your rig will thank you mile after rugged mile.

What is Four-Wheel Drive (4WD) and How Does It Work?

At its core, four-wheel drive (4WD) is a system that sends power from your engine to all four wheels, not just two. This means your rig can grip tricky terrain—think loose gravel, wet grass, snow-packed trails, or rocky climbs—with much more confidence than a standard vehicle.

Some 4WD systems are part-time, letting you choose when to engage all four wheels, while others are full-time, always channeling power where it’s needed.

How does this help you? In rough conditions, sending power to every corner helps maintain traction and control. Instead of spinning in place when one wheel slips, your 4WD transfers the effort to other tires, helping you move forward. Meanwhile, traditional front- or rear-wheel drive vehicles only power half the wheels at any moment, making them more likely to get stuck when things get dicey.

Understanding 4WD—how and when to use it—sets the stage for tackling challenging backroads and getting the most out of your adventures.

Keep Your 4WD in Top Shape

Just like stretching before a long hike, it’s smart to regularly engage your 4WD system—even if you’re not planning an off-road adventure anytime soon.

Periodically shifting into 4WD helps lubricate internal components, keeps seals from drying out, and ensures everything moves freely. If you let those parts sit idle for too long, you might end up with sticky gears or even leaks, which can derail your future outings.

So, every few months, give your 4×4 a little exercise. A quick spin in 4WD mode—on a loose surface like gravel or dirt—will help keep the system in peak condition, ready for your next jaunt off the beaten path.

Four-Wheel Drive vs. Front-Wheel Drive vs. Rear-Wheel Drive

Understanding the difference between four-wheel drive, front-wheel drive, and rear-wheel drive is a great starting point for mastering your vehicle off the beaten path.

• Four-wheel drive (4WD): With this setup, power from the engine gets distributed to all four wheels. The result? Enhanced traction and better control on tricky surfaces such as mud, snow, or steep, rocky climbs. You’ll find this feature invaluable when your journey takes you far from paved roads and into unpredictable terrain.
• Front-wheel drive (FWD): Here, the engine sends its muscle to the front pair of wheels. FWD vehicles tend to perform well in everyday conditions, particularly in rain or light snow, thanks to the engine’s weight being over the drive wheels. They’re popular on city streets and highways but have their limits on tougher ground.
• Rear-wheel drive (RWD): In this case, the engine powers the back wheels. Rear-wheel drive is favored for balanced handling and performance, especially if you enjoy spirited driving or carry heavier loads. However, RWD can be less forgiving when surfaces get loose, muddy, or icy.

Getting familiar with which wheels your vehicle relies on for momentum can help you choose the best line, manage challenging surfaces, and know exactly what to expect when the going gets rough.

Every vehicle may best tackle an obstacle differently based on its wheelbase, tire size, tire track, ground clearance, overall weight, and other factors.

Learn the lines on which your vehicle works well and don’t always expect to tackle an obstacle in the same way as a different vehicle in front of you.

Short-wheelbase vehicles are typically less stable, but can turn in tight spaces. By contrast, a long-wheelbase vehicle usually offers increased stability, but you have to plan further ahead and tackle tight turns differently than you would in a short-wheelbase 4WD.

Does Four-Wheel Drive Improve Braking or Cornering Stability?

It’s a common misconception that engaging four-wheel drive gives you an edge when it comes to braking or holding a line through a turn.

In reality, 4WD systems are designed to help with traction when you’re accelerating—especially on loose gravel, mud, snow, or sand—not when you’re trying to slow down or navigate corners.

When it comes to braking, every vehicle—4WD, AWD, or 2WD—relies on the grip of its tires and the effectiveness of its brakes, not on the drive system itself. That means you won’t stop faster just because all four wheels are driving power to the ground.

In fact, having 4×4 engaged might give a false sense of security, which can lead to getting in over your head and ending up stuck—or worse, off the trail entirely.

The same goes for stability while cornering. Taking a hairpin on a backcountry road or winding your way down a mountain pass requires careful attention to speed, smooth steering, and proper tire pressure—not a reliance on your 4WD system.

If anything, extra speed or abrupt movements can upset your vehicle’s balance, no matter how many wheels are being driven.

So, while 4WD is a powerful tool for getting through challenging terrain, remember its limits. Stay mindful on descents and through corners—driver skill and smart choices matter most.

Exceptions and Caution

There’s an exception to every rule. Sometimes, you’ll need to make judgment calls that go against standard advice—perhaps when conditions change rapidly, or when safety is on the line.

For example, you might choose a different line or attempt an obstacle solo if it’s the only safe way forward, but your level of caution must go way, way up. Recognize when the situation calls for flexibility, and always weigh the risks before breaking from the usual playbook.

If you drive a manual transmission, do your best to keep your foot off the clutch. Use low gears to creep forward, saving yourself from slipping the clutch in a higher gear.

Learn the two-foot technique where you operate the gas pedal with your right foot while simultaneously feathering the brake with your left foot as needed.

With an auto transmission, this can help engage the torque converter to move your rig forward, without attaining excessive speed in a spot where you want to crawl slower.

Understanding Auto 4WD Mode

Auto 4WD mode offers a helpful middle ground between traditional two-wheel drive and full-time four-wheel drive systems.

Here’s how it works: when you’re cruising along on dry pavement or easy dirt roads, the vehicle operates in 2WD, sending power to just the rear—or occasionally the front—wheels. This helps with fuel economy and keeps wear on drivetrain components to a minimum.

However, when conditions turn slippery—think loose gravel, muddy ruts, or a surprise patch of ice—the system springs into action. Sensors detect loss of traction and seamlessly engage power to all four wheels, directing torque wherever it’s needed most.

Unlike traditional part-time systems, you don’t need to stop or fiddle with levers; the computer handles the shift in real time.

When Should You Use Auto 4WD? 

It shines on roads where conditions vary—maybe you’re traveling from dry pavement to puddles, then to sand or light snow.

Instead of guessing when to engage four-wheel drive, Auto 4WD gives you peace of mind knowing your rig will respond quickly to changing terrain, letting you stay focused on the trail ahead.

A larger tire footprint generally translates to greater traction. We’re surprised by how many drivers take their 4WDs in the backcountry yet never adjust their tire pressure.

Most tires on standard wheels can easily handle pressures of 15-18 psi (or lower) off-road without a tire coming off the wheel bead.

Tires vary and you can experiment with what pressures work best with your vehicle weight and terrain. With beadlock wheels, you can dip to single digit inflation pressures for maximum traction.

When Not to Engage 4WD

As capable as your 4WD system is in mud, sand, or snow, there are times when you should leave it switched off—namely, on flat, dry pavement.

Engaging 4WD on hard, dry surfaces can actually work against you. Since these surfaces don’t allow your tires to slip naturally, the drivetrain can bind up, creating unnecessary stress and increased wear on axles, transfer cases, and differentials.

Besides the mechanical strain, you’ll also notice your fuel economy dropping, since your engine works harder to send power through both axles.

Save 4WD for those loose, slippery, or rugged terrains where traction is at a premium. On the highway or around town, sticking to two-wheel drive will help keep your drivetrain happy and your gas tank fuller.

Tips & Techniques To Improve Your 4×4 Driving Skills

Ascents

Hill climbing is generally a big part of off-road ventures, and the nature of the trail surface can add to the challenge of getting to the top. Short hills can be less of an obstacle, and you may use momentum as needed.

It’s generally the long hills that can be the most challenging and sometimes no amount of momentum or speed going into the hill is going to sustain you until you reach the top if you don’t pick your lines skillfully.

On those long hills, first ask yourself what you’ll do if you don’t make it all the way.

Can you back down safely?

A little forethought here can be prudent. Carry momentum and use steady throttle for the most part. Sometimes backing off the throttle to reduce tire spin will afford you greater traction when climbing really loose hills.

Once you do make it to the top, take care to know where you’re headed next or what’s over the blind crest at the top.

Preparation is Key

The more remote and more difficult the trail, the more prepared you need to be. For a quick jaunt on an easy trail near town with friends, you might get away without bringing spare parts or extra gear.

But if you’re tackling a legendary route like the Rubicon, a lack of preparation could mean days lost retrieving parts or waiting for help.

Remember the 7 P’s: Proper Prior Planning Prevents Pathetically Poor Performance.

It’s always smart to review your route, double-check your recovery gear, and consider what equipment or backup plans might be needed for the terrain ahead.

On challenging climbs, that extra planning can make the difference between a minor hiccup and a major headache.

Descents

If you get in trouble bouncing up a hill, you can often stop forward motion and sit on the slope to rethink your attempt. However, when making steep descents, sometimes gravity wants to keep pulling you to the bottom even though you’d like to stop and reassess the situation.

Learn to use the compression braking of your engine. By placing the transfer case in low range and/or placing the transmission in a low gear, you can better control your descent down hills without using the brakes heavily and locking them up.

When it comes to descents, 4WD low (4L) is your friend. Dropping your transfer case into 4L and selecting a low gear lets your engine do most of the braking.

This “low and slow” approach keeps your speed in check and offers maximum traction—especially important on loose, rocky, or muddy slopes. Save the brakes for when you actually need them; overusing them can cause wheel lockup and loss of control.

Think about those times you’re easing down a rutted trail, or creeping down a slick, rain-soaked decline—4L helps you keep steady, deliberate progress. Remember, you can always stop at the top of a descent to scope out your line and plan a safe route to the bottom.

Learning to counter-steer can be a useful 4×4 driving skill when you find yourself loosing traction and sliding down a steep hill. Look to the bottom of the hill to see that the area is clear and you have a planned route down.

Off-Camber

Driving off-camber is probably the most daunting position for most wheelers when it comes to the point of feeling like you’ll tip right over. Traversing deep ruts or side-hilling can place a lot of weight on the downhill side of the vehicle, leaving the uphill side light.

Bouncing around in this position can exaggerate weight transfer, so resist jerky movements if you’re in this situation.

It’s important to retrain your instincts here. When dropping a tire in a hole or ravine that causes the vehicle to tilt off-camber, the natural tendency is to want to steer back away from that low spot.

However, knowing the proper 4×4 driving skill of turning the lowside tire back uphill tucks it more under the vehicle providing less tire base for stability. Steering the face of the tire downhill presents more rubber to the ground to the downhill side, often increasing stability.

This is especially true when you’re straddling a ditch and have a firm bank on the downhill side to steer into.

If you feel the vehicle start to slide, the knee-jerk reaction is to stomp on the brakes—don’t. Locking up the brakes can make things worse, causing you to slide even further in the direction of the slope. Instead, ease off and let the tires maintain as much traction as possible.

On wet or muddy slopes, be especially mindful; sliding off-camber in these conditions increases the risk of drifting toward the edge, especially on shelf roads.

Learn and commit to memory these counterintuitive but vital techniques. Practicing these skills will help you keep a calm head and make the right moves when the terrain gets tricky.

Sand

Once you start to dig into sand, it’s often best to stop right there. Most places where you encounter soft sand are washes, dunes, or beaches, and the sand is essentially bottomless.

At that dig point, you often can’t accelerate your way out, but instead further dig your tires deeper into the grains. Sand is the perfect place to run with aired-down tires. Be especially weary of beaches where the water level changes.

Sand patches exposed during low tide can be deceiving, and you don’t want to be caught stuck there when the tide rolls back in. Damp sand usually packs well and provides solid traction, but mixed with a little more water it starts to get slushy and unstable.

Desert wash sand can often be decomposed granite or similar material. Even with it dry, you can dig in quickly with excessive tire spin.

Mud

Ah, mud! Fun to play in, but a chore to clean. Mud comes in many flavors and consistency. Soupy water with dirt and sand stirred is much different than thick brown fluid.

Aggressive mud tires are designed to shed mud as the tires rotate to gain a fresh bite as they turn back into the goo. Know that if you’re running all-terrain tires, and you’re following your buddy with mud-terrains, you’ll most likely need more speed and momentum to cross the same patch he does.

There are two realities when dealing with mud. With mud of limited depth, the technique may be to claw through the gooey stuff to firmer ground, assuming you have a tall enough tire.

When mud is essentially bottomless, or too deep for your tires to reach bottom, you’ll need momentum and speed to skate across the muddy surface before you sink too deep in any one spot. This may only work for short distances, as you lose speed and need to find drier ground again.

In either situation, careful modulation of the throttle will help you find that sweet spot between moving too slow and spinning and digging too fast.

Snow

Like mud, snow comes in many consistencies from dry, fluffy flakes to cold slush. Obviously, icy surfaces offer little or no traction.

In contrast, untouched snow can offer good traction as it crunches under your front tires. Lowered tire pressure and throttle variation will help you decide the wheel speed that affords you the best traction forward.

When busting new tracks into fresh deep snow, it may be necessary to push forward by backing up and following your tracks forward aggressively into the snow, making a little movement further each time.

Somewhat like mud, progress in snow can depend on depth. In deep snow, you’re pushing a bank with the front of your vehicle and the leading edge of your tires.

Rocks

When running trails, traversing rocks is best done at a slow, steady pace. Too much throttle can throw you off your line or possibly destroy parts. When presented with a boulder field, a lot of beginners tend to want to snake through large rocks or put them between their tires hoping to prevent high-centering on the axles.

However, many times it’s best to simply drive the tires on one side of the vehicle over rocks, despite pitching the vehicle off-camber. Wet rocks can increase the challenge and may require a bit more wheelspeed to traverse.

It’s inevitable when playing in rocks that you’ll bump your differential from time to time. Many factory differential covers are relatively weak and may dent if pounded too hard on a rock.

This can result in the cover rubbing on the spinning ring gear and may eventually lead to a hole worn in the cover. Bump boulders gently or consider armoring these areas for greater protection.

Lowered tire pressure increases traction in rocks as the tires flex to conform to the surface. Utilizing driving skill and knowhow over boulders and in rocky terrain can make the difference between getting to the campsite or having a major repair on your hands.

Water Crossings

Splashing through the wet stuff on the trail is often fun, but water can be deceptive and quickly disastrous to your vehicle.

Learn where and at what height your engine air intake lies to ensure water does not enter there.

When you cross water of considerable depth, you start pushing a wake of water in front of you. It’s usually best to keep moving consistently to the dry ground on the other side.

Cross downstream rather than upstream to minimize the wake pushing into the front of your rig. When in doubt, stop and check water depth before crossing.

It’s best to make crossings as quick as reasonably possible. Stopping in deep water for an extended period allows water a greater chance of finding its way past your axle oil seals and into lubricated areas where it shouldn’t be.

Also, stirred up water can hold sand and tiny pebbles in suspension that can work their way into your brake components, especially inside brake drums.

If you haven’t already done so, consider adding extended axle vent lines that terminate higher than the deepest water you expect to encounter.

Traveling in Groups: Safety First

Whether you’re tackling rocky ledges in Moab or forging new tracks through a snowy Colorado forest, heading out with others isn’t just more fun—it’s a smart safety strategy.

There’s genuine peace of mind in knowing that should you run into mechanical trouble, get stuck axle-deep in sand, or discover your winch suddenly lacks motivation, help is close at hand.

More vehicles mean more recovery equipment, more hands to dig, and more brains to solve tricky situations.

Besides, when it comes to remote backroads, there’s reassurance in knowing you won’t be alone if unexpected challenges—like a blown tire or an unplanned pit stop—derail your day.

Think of it as off-road insurance: bringing along fellow adventurers ensures there’s always someone to assist, spot an obstacle, or simply offer moral support as you tackle whatever the trail throws your way.

Vehicle Recovery: Stay Calm and Work Together

When someone gets stuck, it’s easy for chaos to take over—everyone wants to lend a hand and offer quick fixes. But the smartest (and often safest) approach is to stay calm and coordinate your efforts.

Before leaping into action, pause and appoint a single person to oversee recovery. Gather everyone for a quick game plan, discuss options, and make sure everyone knows their role.

Deliberate, organized teamwork beats frantic digging or winching every time. Take a measured approach: slow and steady movements usually get vehicles out smoothly and minimize the risk of damage or injury.

Set clear signals and communicate throughout the process. With a little patience and smart teamwork, most stuck situations become just another story for the campfire.

Expect Delays in Groups

If you’re headed out with a convoy of vehicles, it’s wise to factor in some extra time for the unexpected. With more rigs come more variables: a flat tire, a mechanical hiccup, someone buried up to their axles, or just the inevitable call of nature.

Don’t let these slowdowns throw you off; they’re all part of the experience. While your ideal timeline might capture the spirit of a Swiss train schedule, real trail days work more like Italian buses—purposeful but with plenty of “scenery stops.”

The upside? Rolling with a group adds a buffer of safety. Stragglers have help, problems get solved, and there’s usually someone around who knows how to recover a stuck Land Cruiser (or at least tell a good story while figuring it out). Just embrace the delays as part of the adventure, and you’ll enjoy the journey all the more.

Ten Things to Avoid:

1. Surprises – Don’t drive too fast or move forward blindly. Use a spotter when needed.  Off-road, your instincts may not always serve you—what feels right on the pavement can get you in trouble on the trail. Remember, your natural reaction—like hitting the brakes on a slippery slope—often makes things worse. Instead, retrain your instincts by learning and practicing the right techniques for off-road conditions.
2. Overloading your vehicle – Reduce the chance of parts breakage and improve stability. Too much weight, especially when mounted high, can raise your center of gravity and make your rig more prone to tipping. Keep your gear load sensible and stow heavy items as low as possible.
3. Going out unprepared – Carry some basic tools, spares and fluids. Learn to use them. Preparation is key—especially the farther you get from civilization. The more remote or challenging the trail, the more you need to be self-sufficient. Plan ahead, bring necessary equipment, and remember the 7 P’s: Proper Prior Planning Prevents Pathetically Poor Performance.
4. Digging your vehicle deeper – Know when more throttle is futile and it’s time to reassess. If you lose forward progress and start spinning your wheels, stop. Spinning tires will only dig you in deeper on sand or mud, or risk breaking drivetrain components on hard ground. Instead, evaluate your situation, air down if needed, and use traction aids or recovery gear.
5. Locking up brakes going downhill – Learn to maintain feathering control on steep descents. Locking up the brakes just increases sliding and can quickly turn a controlled descent into a dangerous slide—especially on loose or wet surfaces. Use low gears, gentle brake pressure, and let engine braking do the work.
6. Mounting gear too high – Tires or heavy gear on roof racks raises your center-of-gravity. This makes your vehicle less stable, especially on off-camber sections or rough trails. Store heavy items as low and as close to the center of the vehicle as possible.
7. Flash floods – Watch for rainfall dangers when exploring washes or other low areas. Even distant storms can quickly turn a dry wash into a raging torrent. Always check weather reports before heading out and never camp or park in washes.
8. Getting completely lost – Carry maps, communication gear, and have a backup plan. Never rely solely on electronics—pack paper maps and a compass as well. Let someone know your route, and understand that delays are normal: groups mean more opportunities for breakdowns, stuck vehicles, and unplanned stops.
9. Hammering the throttle too hard – Parts can and will break leaving you to field repair. Off-road, slow and steady is the rule. Maintain momentum where needed—especially on sand or mud to keep “flotation”—but avoid sudden bursts of power that can break things or bury you deeper.
10. Thinking lots of cool hardware can replace driver technique – Practice and learn. Big tires and lockers help, but nothing beats skill. Learn to read the trail and pick your line carefully—a few inches can be the difference between traction and trouble. Start with the basics before upgrading your rig, and develop your 4×4 driving skills first.

Bonus Wisdom:

• Stick to your recovery plan – If someone gets stuck, pause and make a plan. Too many cooks in the recovery kitchen can quickly turn a minor problem into a major one. Designate a leader, discuss your approach, and execute smoothly and safely.
• Expect the unexpected – Off-road adventures rarely go exactly as scheduled. Be flexible, patient, and keep safety your top priority.
• There’s an exception to every rule – Sometimes, you’ll need to break the rules—like when your safety is at stake. When you do, raise your level of caution and awareness.

By keeping these principles in mind, you’ll not only avoid common pitfalls, but also become a more skilled and responsible off-roader—ready for whatever the trail throws your way.

Always Have a Recovery Plan and a Point Person

When it comes to extracting a stuck vehicle, confusion and too many cooks in the kitchen can create real hazards. That’s why designating a recovery leader and agreeing on the plan is essential. A clear chain of command ensures everyone knows their role and keeps efforts coordinated—reducing risk of injury, damage, or making a bad situation worse.

Recovery should never be rushed—deliberate teamwork and communication win out over frenzied guesswork. With a well-defined plan, progress is smoother, safer, and much more likely to put you back on the trail with minimal drama.