Post Impact Rig Assessment & How To Avoid Hidden Structural Damage

The automotive outdoor community is built on a certain creed: build it way overbuilt.

Instead of factory plastic, we replace it with cold-rolled steel, replace independent front suspensions with heavy-duty kits, and bolt on enough armor to survive a rock slide.

There’s an almost physical comfort in sitting behind a steel bumper; there’s a sense of invincibility. But when the ‘unthinkable’ occurs, say, the collision with a deer on a mountain pass or the pileup of multiple cars on a slick interstate, this same armor changes the physics of the accident.

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For the overlander or weekend warrior, a wreck isn’t only a dented door; it can be possible that other systems/mechanisms are now compromised as well; you just can’t see it.

Some Common ‘Kinks’ Associated with Frame Diamonding

Classic ladder frames you’d normally see on a Tacoma, a 4Runner, or a Jeep Wrangler usually dominate offroading and overlanding. That’s because they’re extremely solid while not being 100% fixed.

A diamond frame is when one side of the frame pushes back even more than the other, moving the vehicle out of a smooth rectangle.

Check your body lines.

You can have a look, and if the space between the bed and cab is narrower on the driver’s side than the passenger side, you’re probably looking at a sheeted frame.

This might not present a problem on light journeys, but you might get a squeaky ride; however, an 80 mph freeway ride will increase wear and tear and make the frame unpredictable for handling.

Misalignment of the Driveline

There are rubber mounts that the engine and transmission sit on.

This reduces the vibration. A heavy jar can rip these mounts apart or move the drivetrain. This may not be visible to the naked eye, but it affects the angle of your driveshaft. If you see a new vibration at extremely high speeds post-impact, your U-joints or carrier bearings could be under ‘side-load’ stress.

This may result in catastrophic failure over time of either the transfer case or differential.

The Legal and Insurance Aftermath

Mechanical recovery is one problem, logistical recovery another.

This is particularly the case in high-traffic outdoor areas like Colorado, where the density of modified rigs is extensive and hazardous driving surfaces abound.

Standard insurance adjusters often cannot diagnose the ‘hidden’ damage due to changes made unbeknownst to them, and as a result, often underestimate the cost of repairing a specialized overland build. And in those moments, specialized automotive knowledge and legal protection collide.

Those riding the Front Range can find a Denver car wreck lawyer to help them have that final bit of leverage to make sure their rig is structurally sound and that their aftermarket investments add the benefit they deserve.

No doubt insurance providers might seek to find something similar to the ‘Blue Book’ worth.

Inspection. The ‘Go/No-Go’

Here is a ‘Go/No-Go’ check before you drive away from the accident scene:

Fluid Check: What about the radiator end-caps leaking? Is the transmission fluid leaking from a pinched cooling line?
Tire Clearance: Can the impact push the fender into the tire, blocking its movement/rotation?
Steering Play: Do you feel that there’s play when steering? Like, you rotate the steering wheel, but nothing happens? This might point to a bent tie rod, or the steering box housing might be cracked. Either way, not good.

Conclusion

The more you invest in your ride, the more you’ve invested in freedom. With that being said, physics and reality are still a thing. The way a car/truck handles a collision is different when it’s completely stock and when it’s modified.

Whenever you do any modifications, it’s best to talk to the installer about how the added ‘armor’ will affect energy travel, plus how it’ll respond under pressure. You don’t want to learn that during a collision.

It’s always better to learn it before and then never have a collision happen in the first place.